Traveling Solo to Yangshuo China
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I decided to travel to Yangshuo for a long weekend after relocating to China for a year-long teaching contract. It wasn’t too far away and I thought I was ready to venture deeper into this fascinating country, so read along for the highs and lows of my trip to Yangshuo.
Getting to Yangshuo
I had planned on taking the train or the bus to Guilin, the closest large city to Yangshuo. The picturesque county is about 422 kilometers (269 miles) from Guangzhou, the city I was living in.
Yangshuo is located 40 miles southeast of Guilin and is famous for its stunning karst landscape characterized by limestone peaks, scenic rivers, and lush greenery. Most of this was visible as we made our way from Guilin to Yangshuo.
Flying to Guilin
Then I discovered that flying only took one hour and cost about $15 more than the train and bus. This girl decided to fly! The subway in Guangzhou travels directly to the airport in less than an hour. A small tour bus transported eager visitors the rest of the way from Guilin to Yangshuo and departed about every few hours.
With plenty of time to wait, I enjoyed KFC at the Guilin airport while waiting for the next part of the journey. Many of the Chinese travelers stared at me since I was obviously not Chinese. This is a normal occurrence in China.
I was extremely nervous to travel alone because I didn’t speak much Chinese at all. Very little, like yes and no, please and thank you. My coworker Nikki was doing the same trip and was already in Yangshuo a full two days ahead of me. Her pictures and enthusiasm for the trip made me decide to do the same with my free time, so off I went.
The Bus Ride to Yangshuo
The bus ride went smoothly for me and the views along the way were spectacular. The dramatic karst mountains loomed in the distance and farmers worked their fields visible from the highway as we sped along. I was amazed to see oxen being used to plow fields and pull carts laden with produce. Think of the image often portrayed in depictions of Chinese farmers showing the conical straw hat. I watched many farm their land while protected from the hot May sun wearing one of these straw hats. She is down below in the middle of the field protecting her head from the sun’s rays.
Arriving at Yangshuo Bus Station
The bus station was about a mile from where I was staying on West Street. When I asked how to get to my hostel, I was told I could walk with my luggage. Due to my arthritic ankle, walking that far with a suitcase was not in my plans. I eventually found help in arranging for a quick taxi ride to the entrance of West Street.
West Street in Yangshuo
West Street is a preserved pedestrian area full of shops, restaurants, and places to stay. It’s a unique blend of traditional Chinese architecture with a cosmopolitan atmosphere. Also known as Foreigner Street, this lively pedestrian area attracts both international and Chinese tourists. No vehicles of any kind are allowed in the pedestrian area and it is bustling with visitors enjoying the markets and foods available. My room was a private one in a hostel and it was a bit of a challenge to find how to get there from the street.
If I remember correctly, I had to message the hostel on WeChat to find out where to go. The entrance was located in back of a shop on the ground floor and this is so different from the way entrances are set up in the United States. The name of the hostel has slipped my mind, but the staff and guests were so courteous. I booked a private room since I was a bit old to be sharing a room with strangers from around the world. The price was amazing for a beautiful, comfortable room for a fraction of the cost back in the USA.
Things to do in Yangshuo
There are many outdoor activities to choose from when visiting the area. It is a haven for enthusiasts who love bamboo rafting, kayaking, hiking, rock climbing, and biking. The dramatic karst mountains provide a mysterious backdrop to these physical activities. Due to my mobility with my ankle, I did not participate in these sports, but plenty of other people did.
If interested in exploring the natural beauty of the Yangshuo area, choose a tour that appeals to you the most. There's surely something here to challenge you. Kayaking Rock Climbing ATV/Buggy Ride in the Countryside around Yangshuo
In addition to outdoor activities, Yangshuo also has an assortment of shops and international restaurants, as well as local Chinese eateries.
The first night I met up with my friend and we shared dinner together at a restaurant on West Street. There were so many options to choose from, but this one was Middle Eastern food. The following day Nikki had plans with a friend, so I signed up for a ride on the Li Jiang, or the Li River.
Floating Down the Li Jiang
The tour guide picked us up at the end of the street and transported us the 30 minutes to the launch area of the river. I chose a motorized version of the traditional raft and enjoyed an hour-long cruise on a gray cloudy day. With assistance from the boatman, I had no problem getting onto the raft and sitting down. The karst mountains line the sides of the river with their mysteriously rounded shapes. The image used for the 20 yuan bill memorializes the view of the karst mountains from the river. If interested in booking your own river cruise, click here for more details.
Once we completed our river cruise, we waited for everyone to return to the bus before taking a leisurely route back to town. The trip showed me the vast differences between the everyday life of the rural villagers to the gleaming metropolis of the city I lived in, Guangzhou. China is a nation of contrasts.
Exploring West Street in Yangshuo, China
The following day I did a bit of shopping and strolled along the pedestrian street. I purchased some scarves for my mother and sisters and enjoyed the most delicious mango shake I have ever tasted. Drank three of them in 4 days.
I ate at traditional Chinese restaurants and also enjoyed the local specialties. This included Yangshuo rice noodles, stuffed snails, Guilin rice noodles and fish cooked in beer, but beware of the small fish bones! It is traditional for most meats and fish to be cooked whole with the bones intact. Maybe it was my overprotective American mother, but we never ate fish with bones still inside. The thought of choking and dying from a stuck fish bone made it hard for me to enjoy the meal. I felt a bit foolish trying to spit out the bones and didn’t end up eating much fish. It seemed to be more work than it was worth.
Impressions Sanjie Liu Water Show
People at the hostel recommended the Impressions Sanjie Liu show. This show is directed by renowned filmmaker Zhang Yimou and showcases the local ethnic minority cultures. These minority groups include the Zhuang, Yao, and Dong people. Their traditions, costumes, and handicrafts are available in the surrounding villages.
Click this link to get your tickets. These can sell out fast!
Nikki and I signed up for a tour bus ride to the performance area outside of town. This show is enacted out on the water with a display of lights, boats, and bursts of activities taking place on the shoreline. I don’t have many pictures of the show, but you’ll hear more about why later on.
As we entered the area to sit and experience the show, there was a celebratory feeling in the air. It reminded me of the exciting atmosphere you feel when you go to a carnival as a child. Large tour groups wearing the same colored shirt were being led by their tour guide by following a specifically designed flag. The seats were arranged in stadium style and the view was excellent for everyone.
The skill of the boatmen and the elaborate costumes and lights create a spectacular unique show you won’t find elsewhere. Although I couldn’t follow the songs or words used, I did understand the storyline to be that of villagers falling in love and creating a prosperous life on the river. It was the perfect show to watch in the warm evening as the sun went down and the darkness settled over the water.
The Trip Back Home from Yangshuo to Guangzhou
Nikki left the night before me and was taking the night bus. She said it was an experience I shouldn’t miss, so I bought a ticket for the following night. My last day was spent relaxing, reading, and people watching while enjoying the variety of foods available in the West Street area.
I had the hostel arrange a ride for me from the end of West Street back to the bus station. The night bus pulled in just as I arrived. This looked like a regular tour bus from the outside, but once inside it was a totally different story.
There were actual beds along both sides of the bus set up like bunk beds. I was lucky enough to grab a bottom level bunk that was complete with sheets, blankets, and pillows. You had to remove your shoes as you entered the bus and were given a bag for storage. Most of the travelers were Chinese. Within 5 minutes of boarding the bus, they were tucked into their bunks and ready for sleep. I heard the gentle sounds of snoring before we even left the starting point. And it didn’t get dark for another hour or so!
The bus pulled out for the 5-6 hour ride back to Guangzhou at around 7:30 pm. People fell asleep and I settled in against my pillow observing everything. I never fall asleep when traveling, especially on a bus or in a car. My new iPad mini entertained me and I watched the scenery until it was too dark. After about 3 hours on the road I started to think I would like to use the bathroom. Unfortunately, I found out there wasn’t a bathroom on this bus. Now I really had to go. Once my bladder knew there wasn’t a toilet, it needed one. Soon.
Highway Bathroom Break
Luckily for me, and my bladder, an older gentlemen firmly insisted the bus stop immediately. We pulled in at a gas station along the highway.
Someone who spoke English indicated “Bathroom break.” I didn’t need any further encouragement to get up and follow the line off the bus to the bathrooms. This was not a bathroom I would have normally used but it was the best I was going to find. I squeezed out every drop since I knew we still had at least 2-3 hours to Guangzhou. The rest of the ride was peacefully quiet except for the occasional snore heard from another bunk. Once we finally pulled into the bus station in Guangzhou, I made use of their bathroom and then found a taxi to take me home.
The Highs and Lows of My Trip to Yangshuo
The high of this trip was getting the courage to travel by myself. Exploring new places in a country whose language I didn’t understand was a challenge. The scenery, the people, the show, and the food were all definitely positive. People helped me when I felt lost or confused with what was going on around me. That support made this trip more memorable.
Although I thought the idea of the night bus was interesting, if I had known there was no bathroom I wouldn’t have taken it. Even so, it was a fun experience and I made it home safely. I also unfortunately forgot my iPad mini on the bus. It had fallen down the crack at the side of the bed cushion. I was in such a hurry to get off the bus and use the bathroom again that I forgot to check for it. Most of my great pictures from the show were on there and I was so disappointed to lose them forever. Since it was brand new there wasn’t too much on it at all, but I was definitely sad for my carelessness. That was the only low from this trip. I may have wanted more company some of the time, but learning to love your own company is a good thing to nurture.
Memories of Yangshuo
Although this trip happened nearly ten years ago, I still remember the people I met and the experiences I enjoyed. The atmosphere has changed a bit in China since then. If the situation improves, I’m hoping to get back there some day in the future.
If learning more about China and the Chinese culture interests you, then click on the links below for books or translation devices. China is a fascinating place that everyone should explore at least once in their lifetime.
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