Mekong River Slow Boat to Luang Prabang, Laos
Wondering how to get from Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang in Laos? Taking the Mekong River slow boat is one option, but best be prepared for this adventurous trip. The more you know the more enjoyable it might be. It’s all up to your sense of adventure and tolerance for long boat rides.
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The Mekong River Slow Boat Tour to Laos Begins
When I booked a quick visit to Laos, my friendly tour guide down the road from my hotel helped me. Toom said it was a two day journey and the price included the ride to the Laos border, overnight accommodations in Houayxay, and the Mekong River slow boat ride to Luang Prabang. A two day trip was what I heard.
It started off well and the van picked me up right within the stated time frame. The minibus was rather full already when I climbed into the single back seat. Not a good decision since right next to me is where all of the luggage and backpacks piled up. A few more stops and several additional young backpackers climbed on board with more bags. There were 11 passengers on this ride and all but one were women. I was the oldest by far. The average age of the passengers ranged in the early to mid twenties.
Heading North to Chiang Rai
The ride north toward Chiang Rai and the White Temple was broken up by two stops. The first was at a rest area/jewelry store/food area with nice clean bathrooms. We stretched our legs and grabbed snacks and drinks. I also succumbed to buying a lovely sterling silver bangle for a fair price.
Haggling for a better price is accepted, and often expected here. My haggling skills saved me over 500 baht, but that could have been her original price anyway. Especially for an unaware foreigner. I’m still happy I bought the silver bracelet.
Then back on the road and this is when the driver’s skills deteriorated even more. He drove erratically, often swerving sharply around slower vehicles or deep curves. The roads were well paved but single lane for some distance. He didn’t seem to like being behind other vehicles and we felt it. Even more so all the way in the back of the bus with the luggage. I rearranged the mountain of backpacks and suitcases to avoid being crushed and somehow managed to survive the ride unscathed.
Made it Safely to the White Temple in Chiang Rai
The next stop was when we finally made it to the White Temple, thankfully in one piece. He informed us we had about an hour to spend there before continuing to the border. This is where the lack of communication started.
We parked in a lot with many other buses and cars. All along the lot were small stores, shops, and restaurants, as well as others across from the temple.
Visiting the White Temple in Chiang Rai
I walked through the Temple, but rather quickly, since it was nearly 100 degrees outside in the sun. The bright white of the temple reflected all of that sunshine and it was uncomfortable. Too many other tourists ignored the keep walking directions and clogged the pathway for photo shoots. They blocked the only path up to the temple while they posed for pictures and videos. Once I made it past them, I decided not to go into the temple since taking off my shoes and walking barefoot is not comfortable for me.
I took many pictures and videos, while not blocking any other tourists, and made my way back toward the lot. I discovered the majority of the other female travelers eating lunch since they seemed to have skipped the temple or just blew through it even faster than I.
By the time I realized this was also our lunch break, I only had time to order some rice and pork and get about 5 bites down before we had to head back to the bus. A quick bathroom break, which cost 5 baht, and then onto the bus for another 90 minutes of driving. Make sure to keep some coins with you when traveling around in case of a bathroom charge. You do not want to have an accident for the sake of a few pennies.
Finally Starting the Border Crossing Process
The driving only decreased in skill and when we finally pulled into a lot that looked like an abandoned gas station, I was relieved we were all still alive. This was actually the first part of the many steps to get into Laos and was a pre-border checkpoint.
Step One – Preparing to Get the Laos Visa
First, if you didn’t bring an approved passport sized photograph, you had to pay for a new one. I didn’t know I needed it, and I had several, but the cost was less than $3.00. Most people needed one and when that was done, a short drive to Border Control and many more steps were about to begin.
I was also able to exchange some USD for Laotian Kip at this pre-border checkpoint. This was our first experience with requiring perfectly crisp dollar bills or they won’t be accepted. My hotel concierge later told me that they have no problem accepting some slightly worn bills that they can use to make change for customers. It is the banks in Laos that will not accept them.
Step Two – Actually Getting the Visa
We were dropped off at what looked more like an official border checkpoint and grabbed our luggage from the back of the van. Wheeled it over to a woman and she directed us to a line of people waiting to start the border process. It was a bit unorganized and looked like there were two windows, but only one had an employee standing there.
By the time I got to the front of the line, she took $1 USD for arriving in Laos and then asked for the form I completed, and my passport. Then we were told to wait over there, with a vague wave toward the large open room with just a few seats. At this point I just wanted water but nothing was open, even though it was only about 3:30 pm.
Americans Were Given Preference
Although I was one of the last ones to hand in my passport, the lady called the 2 other Americans and I first. They handed our passports back with the Laos visa attached inside. We discussed how strange it was to hand our most precious document in a foreign country off to someone with no idea where it was going. But we got it back and directed to a lady sitting at a folding table with a plastic chair to pay for the visa. In Laos, it paid to be American.
The lack of order, or what we decided was proper procedure, was everywhere. They still got what we needed done rather quickly though.
The fee for the visa was $40 USD but it had to be with perfectly crisp, mint bills or they would be denied. I had over $100 in 20s and was lucky 2 of them passed the test. I later found out that it is the banks in Laos that will not accept anything other than perfect bills. Once that was done we were allowed to go through the passport check. Our picture taken, then we pushed through the turnstile out to a waiting bus that would actually bring us to Laos. I found out we were still on the Thai side of the border.
Step Three – Finally Getting to Laos for the Mekong River Slow Boat
We loaded the luggage into the bottom of the bus and boarded for a 5-6 minute ride down the road and over the Friendship Bridge to bring us to the true Laos side. There we waited to get into town.
Even though they knew how many of us were coming to take the boat, they didn’t have vehicles large enough to accommodate everyone in one trip. The first group left and our tour guide lady told us to wait 20 minutes. It was 45 before they returned to fetch us. Lucky for those of us waiting that we could buy drinks and ice cream while we sat outside in 100 degree heat. And we didn’t know what the hell was going on.
Lack of Communication Slowed Everything Down
The lack of communication and what steps to follow were rampant during this trip and in Laos generally.
- misinformed amounts of time – this was never clearly stated by anyone on this trip from the first driver all the way through to the drop-off in the city
- waiting for buses because they couldn’t accommodate the whole group – or they couldn’t find the rest of the group (this did happen once)
- multiple locations and steps to process through the border with no clear directions
- where to find food once at the guesthouse (nobody at the front desk)
All of this should have been much clearer. I also had misinformation when booking the trip because I heard the whole process would take 2 days, not 3. I should have read the brochure Toom had given me.
This was not her mistake, it was mine. She told me the actual process of getting there and I didn’t register the correct amount of time. My mistake 100%.
But it was 2 days on the Mekong River slow boat itself and the additional first day to get up to Houayxay. It was my mistake for not asking more questions about how the whole trip would progress and not reading through the brochure she gave me.
Trust You Will Get There Safely
I learned very quickly that traveling in Asia involves lots of trust and patience. If you don’t possess these traits, it may be difficult to explore Laos this way. The people are kind and helpful, but do things their own way and at their own speed. Just go with the flow and everything will be fine. Trust in the process.
Arriving in Houayxay and the Guesthouse
We were happy to be picked up eventually and brought to the guesthouse for the night. I paid a little extra for my own room and that was a total waste. The only good thing was that the AC worked. The bed was hard as a rock as is common in Asian countries. The guesthouse was not very inviting, but first I had to find something to eat.
There was nobody around to ask where we could find a restaurant so we started strolling down the street. We eventually found a place for dinner, which was delicious and cheap. I went with the pair of American ladies I met traveling from New York.
Once back at the guesthouse, I tried relaxing and reading a bit, only slightly anxious about the place and where we were. Although this guest house was full of fellow travelers, I didn’t see people around. It felt isolated and empty.
This area was truly just a holding point for people coming in through Thailand and continuing into Laos. It consisted mostly of young backpackers from around the world. I wasn’t quite comfortable, but that’s a good thing, right? You learn and grown when you challenge yourself with new experiences.
My Disgusting Bathroom
Now let’s talk about the bathroom. No water. I decided to shower at 10:30 before bed and no water. Tried the breaker switch and every combo of buttons in the bathroom before heading down to the lobby for help. Nobody to be found.
And it didn’t help that someone had left a dump in the toilet, which couldn’t be flushed. I had to pee there, so just thought of it as an outhouse. Grossed me out but I could get through the night.
Getting Ready to Head to the Slow Boat
After an uncomfortably long night with little sleep, we were told to be ready by 9:00 am to go get snacks and drinks for the boat ride. This was necessary since our guide informed us nothing was available on the boat. At least that’s what we were told.
When we got on the minivan, still missing a handful of people, we drove to a dinky, dark shop to buy water, soda, and snacks, which consisted mostly of potato chips and Pringles. I definitely needed water and most people bought instant noodles since hot water was available on the boat.
Come to find out this shop was owned by someone related to the tour guide lady and they did sell these same snacks and drinks on the boat. Just a way for the family to get as much money as possible from the unsuspecting tourists who didn’t know any better. Now you know since I shared with you and can be better prepared than me.
Finally Reaching the Mekong River Slow Boat Launch
Our tour guide lady told me I could get coffee at the boat landing so I was pleased when we finally arrived. She also neglected to tell us we received a sandwich to eat on the boat since we would be on the river for nearly 8 hours. I grabbed a cappuccino and some fruit for breakfast and waited for us to board.
Many other people wandered down to the boat and got great seats. Although our tickets gave us a seat number I soon discovered that nobody paid the least amount of attention to that order.
My First Sight of the Steps
When told to head down there with our luggage, we walked down a slanting road to a very steep set of uneven sized concrete steps with no handles. And we were supposed to carry our own luggage down those steps.
I was petrified I would fall but someone helped me with the luggage. I went down one step at a time. By the time I could board, the boat was quite full and heavy. They had to push out further from the steps and that left a patch of loose dirt and some rocks we had to step on. I slipped and slammed right down on my butt.
Didn’t get hurt but I was annoyed that this was how the trip already started. I wasn’t even on the boat yet. Breathe deeply and think positively. I certainly was happy I didn’t end up in the Mekong River.
A lady handed out plastic bags for shoes, but I said no. I already fell and tweaked my ankle and I needed my shoes to stabilize my foot. Nobody argued with me. Walked the length of the slow boat to drop the luggage in the back and I went to find my seat. That’s when I discovered a bunch of young adults sprawled everywhere and told to find another seat.
Trying to Find a Seat
At this point I was pissed but walked back down and found 2 girls with room for another on a wooden bench that resembled a straight-backed church pew. With only a small useless cushion for comfort, here I sat for the next 8 hours.
Finally pushed off at 10:00 am since we had to wait for some entitled travelers. They thought they could finish their breakfast while we all sat outside sweltering on the river waiting to take off.
Not a good start to the trip. But I should be at my hotel tonight and could relax. Breathing deeply to calm myself and settle my nerves, I told myself to find the best in the situation and thought of what an amazing story this would be. I hoped.
Floating on the Mekong River Slow Boat
The ride along the Mekong River was peaceful but actually boring. There is very little change in scenery as you go along. Rocks, sandy beaches, small villages seen up high, and a few passing boats. At least a cool breeze blew along the water.
We stopped several times on sandy beaches to pick up people traveling down the river. They would walk along the beach carrying their bags or luggage from the village seen in the distance. All of these places had extremely steep sandy paths without a single road or vehicle in sight.
After a few hours our tour guide lady jumped off at a beach with no further directions for anyone on our next steps. But since we would be docking soon in Luang Prabang, we should be all set.
I even went so far as to book a night at a nice hotel when I had enough signal because my other booking was for Friday. That should have been my first clue that something was off. The clues were there but I wasn’t paying attention.
Arriving in Pakbang for the Night
When we started to slow down and everyone gathered their bags, my map showed we were still a far distance from the city. That’s when I learned we were to spend the night in Pakbang.
This is an area that was set up for the nightly tour groups and travelers coming to Luang Prabang on the Mekong River slow boat. The information about needing to pay for accommodations for one night were mentioned in the brochure, but I somehow skipped over that part. Found a nice place to stay in Pakbang and quickly canceled the Luang Prabang booking. I deserved a comfortable place to sleep and desperately needed a shower.
I groaned when I heard we had another 7-8 hours on this boat tomorrow. My back and my poor butt hurt from the wooden bench. And I had to climb up another ridiculous set of uneven steps without any railings with my luggage. This trip was testing my limits, both physically and mentally. But I wasn’t about to give up.
Getting Off the Mekong River Slow Boat and Up the Stairs
I got off the boat with my stuff and found a guy who would carry luggage up to the top. Kids begged for the food they saw in my plastic bag I was using for trash. One wanted my instant noodles which I hadn’t eaten since the smell of everyone else’s made me gag. The other wanted my opened can of Spicy Garlic Prawn Pringles. Handed them off and told them to take the whole bag.
I quickly had a twinge of sadness wondering if these kids were actually hungry, or just wanted snacks. Decided it was snacks so I could focus on the stairs. The bag was one less thing I had to worry about and now I could concentrate on getting up the steps.
My seatmate, a lovely young girl from the UK offered me her arm and I took it for a few steps. Once at the top I tipped the guy and then felt dismay. I saw the steep road curving up to the guesthouse. This part of Laos does not believe in straight flat roads.
A Wonderful Ride to the Lodge
Lucky for me the man from the guesthouse offered to put my bags in the cart. I could sit on the bench and get a ride up to the front door. On the way we passed Natalie and Reagan, the lovely American ladies I met the night before. We all booked the same nicer guesthouse. Most of the backpackers booked hostels with group rooms to save money. To read more about this lodge, click here.
Back Out Onto the Mekong River Slow Boat
After a wonderful and restful night’s rest, the same man helped transport my luggage back down to the boat. We ate an early breakfast and claimed seats over an hour before the scheduled departure time. The only problem I saw was that today’s boat was considerably smaller than the one we arrived on. And there were even more travelers today.
I was comfortable as possible in an upholstered truck seat that attached to the one next to me, but not to the floor. Although I wouldn’t say it was exactly comfortable, it was much better than the wooden bench. Another long and tedious 7 hours passed with little change to the scenery.
Finally Arriving in Luang Prabang, Almost
When we finally pulled up to the dock I cringed when I spotted yet another set of concrete steps reaching to the top of the steep slope. Once again they were unevenly sized steps with a railing that started about 10 feet from the top. I asked for assistance and generously tipped the man who carried up my backpack and small weekend bag. This way I focused on just getting me up the stairs.
At the top everyone milled about trying to figure out how to get into the actual city of Luang Prabang. Most of us thought we arrived in the city but there was nothing in sight. We disembarked about 10 km outside of the city.
The Ride Into the City of Luang Prabang
A ticket counter inside a small building sold cheap transportation. This allowed us to get ourselves and our luggage into a main drop-off point in the city. Drivers piled us into an open-backed truck with seats along the side and stacked the unsecured luggage on top like a Tetris game. I have no idea how everything made it to our destination without falling off, but we didn’t lose anything.
Once dropped at the main area, I quickly found a tuk tuk driver to take me back to my hotel for the weekend. We passed it on the ride into the city so I was backtracking. Click here to learn all about My Dream Resort Hotel in Luang Prabang.
Relief flooded my body when I arrived at the hotel. The staff welcomed me so warmly and I released the pressure of the past few days of traveling. I never wanted to see a Mekong River slow boat again. Thank goodness I was flying back to Chiang Mai in a few days.
The Total Cost of My Mekong River Slow Boat Adventure
I booked a package deal with my travel agent friend that included the following for a total cost of 2600 baht = $72.00 USD (at time of posting)
- pick-up from my hotel lobby
- drive up to the White Temple in Chiang Rai
- transportation to Houayxay
- overnight accommodation in Houayxay
- slow boat seat for 2 days
- a lovely chicken sandwich on the first day of the ride
Added to this amount is the cost for the night’s lodging in Pakbang which cost me $24 and a nice meal was about $3. And don’t forget those snacks and water we were convinced we needed before boarding the slow boat. About $3.00.
Total cost = $103.00 (approximately)
My Honest Opinion of the Mekong River Slow Boat Ride
Although I can definitely call this an experience, it is not one I will ever repeat. Once on the boat I just had to deal with uncomfortable seats and boredom. A few loud, obnoxious drunken travelers were annoying, but quickly handled by their sober friends.
Traveling with a partner might have reduced the boredom on the trip. A snack counter sold water, other drinks, and actual snacks to keep you fueled. The bathroom was surprisingly clean and well-maintained.
Mobility Concerns
For someone with mobility issues, the problem arose with the difficult steps both down to the boat and up to shore. Three sets of these dangerous steps challenged me in Houayxay, Pakbang, and the last set outside of Luang Prabang. I was lucky to have assistance with my luggage so I could concentrate on just myself.
No railings or anything to help support you proved scary to me. If I fell forward, many other people would have been hurt or knocked down the steps. My biggest fear was becoming a bowling ball heading toward the bowling pins – the unfortunate people in front of me.
It was not the time to try and be brave and do my best. I had a serious fear of falling. This fear made me ask for help immediately and then come down one step at a time. Not ideal, but I did it and am glad for the adventure. And not one single person complained about my slowness. They did the opposite and offered help and support, which I appreciated so much.
Check Your Timing
Another issue that could have been avoided was the timing of my trip. The Thai celebration of Songkran just finished and the boat didn’t travel during the national holiday. Many travelers forced to wait ensured the first boat out was filled to capacity. Check the holiday schedules and choose another date to travel if possible.
In Conclusion: The Mekong River Slow Boat to Luang Prabang, Laos
Would I recommend the Mekong River slow boat ride to Luang Prabang?
My response would totally depend on several factors:
- your budget
- your time frame
- your level of mobility
If you’re still ready to give this slow boat a chance, click here for more info.
For other solo people like me with limited mobility, I would not recommend this method of travel. Perhaps if you traveled with another person for assistance, it would be easier. I don’t think it’s worth your time and energy worrying about your ability to manage the boat and the stairs. The kindness of others helped me considerably. Without help from strangers I would not have been able to make this trip on the slow boat to Luang Prabang.
Put your energy to better use with exploring Laos on your own terms. And they have a lovely airport in Luang Prabang if you’d prefer this method of traveling. I know because this is the way I returned to Chiang Mai. Thank goodness for that!
Contact me if you’d like to experience travel to Laos. I’d be happy to help you plan your trip. The country is a fascinating place to explore no matter which way you get there.
